Tea Table Etiquette

                 Patented design for a tea service

 in 1873

     

          Quaint Customs Once Observed by British Dames

Tea drinking has become very fashionable among us of late years, almost as much as it was in England a century ago, but the prevailing customs at the table are different. The "teacup times of hood and hoop" had their own etiquette, of a sort not likely to be revived. What should we think now of a fashionable lady who cooled her tea with her breath? 

Yet Young says of a certain bewildering Lady Betty:

Her two red lips affected zephyrs blow To cool the Bohea and inflame the beau. While one white finger and a thumb conspire To lift the cup and make the world admire.

Again a passage in contemporary literature shows that it was a lack of good manners to take much cream or sugar in one's tea. Says a lady of quality to her daughter:

“I must further advise you, Harriet, not to heap such mountains of sugar into your tea, nor to pour such a deluge of cream in. People will certainly take you for the daughter of a dairymaid.” 

Pinky fingers should not be thrust out! ~ Not a real "Dame," and not the "daughter of a dairymaid," either, I doubt Dame Edna, is what the writer of this article had in mind. 

Certain other customs may be remembered in this country among us who had grandmothers trained in the ceremonies of a later day. One of them consisted in putting the spoon in the cup to show that no more tea was desired; another was that of turning over the cup in the saucer for the same purpose. 

Etiquette also demanded that the tea should be tasted from the spoon, and that the hostess should then inquire, "Is your tea agreeable?" Certain scrupulous old ladies ask that now, and the question savors of a more sedate and gentle day than this. — From The St. Louis Republic, 1899 and Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber,  Site Moderator for Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

Tea Time in Morocco

Tea is an honored institution in Morocco, and it is the custom for the guests to take three cups in succession – the first with sugar, the second with the addition of vanilla and the third with mint. – Photo from Pinterest

“As a Paris contemporary observes, taking tea in France or in England is an easy and graceful process, but according to the etiquette of Morocco, the same can not be said. Tea is an honored institution in the houses of the Caids, and it is the custom for the guests to take three cups in succession – the first with sugar, the second with the addition of vanilla and the third with mint.

“The curious thing is the way the tea is made. The vessel in which it is brewed is warmed by the head of the house. Next he puts in the tea and sugar. Then, after a time, he draws off a cup and tastes it. The remainder goes back into the pot. This is repeated until the beverage suits the palate of the host. Then the cups are passed around, but they are not emptied by the guests. What, remains is pased back the host, who puts it into the vessel for the preparations which are to follow with vanilla and mint.” – The San Francisco Call, 1912

The “Dutchess” is a Teaspoon?

The Duchess of Queensberry, 

Catherine Douglas

There is quite a bit of history at the Royal College of Physicians in England. After all, it was founded in 1518 by a charter granted by King Henry VIII, so it has been in business for quite some time.

The teaspoon in question, or a “Dutchess” if you will, is from a collection of medical artifacts at the college. Medical artifacts collected by the late Dr. Cecil Symons (1921–1987) and his wife Jean. Dr. Symons was a cardiologist with a curiosity about Georgian Era medicinal spoons, among other things. He and his wife Jean didn't simply buy items for their historical significance, many were bought because they simply liked the pieces and found them interesting. I have found most collectors buy items for the same reason.

According to Jean Symons in her article, “A Duchess, a Physician and a Spoon”, Symons writes, “The development of the medicine spoon in the Georgian era and particularly whether it preceded the teaspoon - or vice versa - was of particular interest. In 1979 a spoon came up for auction inscribed: ‘Gift of the Dutchess of Queensberry to Lady Carbery.’ Why did she give a spoon in a shagreen case? Was it for medicine or tea? She was known to have a deep interest in potions, tissanes and balsamic draughts and to have made them for her friends. A dose of medicine became known as ‘a teaspoonful’ and it is interesting that that the modern 5ml plastic medicine measure has exactly the same capacity as the gift of the Dutchess of Queensberry to Lady Carberry of 1755.”

‘Gift of the Dutchess of Queensberry to Lady Carberry’ 

Just as today, tea at that time was promoted by many as having medicinal benefits. In fact, according to Symons, the Dutchess of Queensberry had given away many such spoons as gifts, along with the “medicines” she had made. So many were given away in fact, that a teaspoon soon came to be known as “a Dutchess”.

‘A Dutchess’ (c. 1755), engraved on a similar spoon in the Symons Collection made by Thomas and William Chawner in London and a silver medicine spoon and case (c.1755) inscribed 'Gift of the Dutchess of Queensberry to Lady Carberry' .



Notes Symons, "A dose of medicine became known as ‘a teaspoonful’ and the modern plastic medicine spoon, still called a teaspoon, has an identical 5 ml capacity to the duchess’s silver spoon, which further suggests it may have been used as a medicine spoon.” So there you have it... A dutchess is just like a teaspoon. – First published on Etiquette with Maura Graber in July 2011

Proper 5:00 Tea Etiquette in 1901

                                                      

Victorian Tea Science Etiquette

Making Tea Scientifically 

An English Analyst Sets Down the Rules of the Process

Professor Goodfellow, the well known English analyst, gives these rules for making “good” tea: 

1. Always use good tea. 

2. Use “two” hot, dry earthenware teapots. 

3. Use soft water which has just got to the boil. 

4. Infuse about four minutes. 

5. Pour off into the second hot, dry teapot. 

6. Avoid second brews with used tea leaves. 

The fact that tea, as served in France is so often bad, may be accounted for by the omission of some one, or perhaps all, of the above rules in its preparation. They are all necessary to make a, cup of really good tea, and if they were more often strictly adhered to tea would oftener be a delicious beverage. Even at the best “afternoon tea” rooms in England, America and France I do not believe that “two” hot, “dry” teapots are often used to make tea “fresh for each customer,” or that the tea leaves thereafter are thrown away.– The Los Angeles Herald, 1899

Celebrating French, British and Spanish Beverages

What is it about the French coffee?  The coffee sweetened with that sparkling beet-root sugar which ornaments a French table, is the celebrated café-au-lait, the name of which has gone round the world. 

We are not about to enter into the merits of the great tea-and-coffee controversy, further than in our general caution concerning them in the chapter on Healthful Drinks; but we now proceed to treat of them as actual existences, and speak only of the modes of making the best of them. The French coffee is reputed the best in the world; and a thousand voices have asked, What is it about the French coffee?

In the first place, then, the French coffee is coffee, and not chickory, or rye, or beans, or peas. In the second place, it is freshly roasted, whenever made—roasted with great care and eveness in a little revolving cylinder which makes part of the furniture of every kitchen, and which keeps in the aroma of the berry. 

It is never overdone, so as to destroy the coffee-flavor, which is in nine cases out of ten the fault of the coffee we meet with. Then it is ground, and placed in a coffee-pot with a filter through which, when it has yielded up its life to the boiling water poured upon it, the delicious extract percolates in clear drops, the coffee-pot standing on a heated stove to maintain the temperature. The nose of the coffee-pot is stopped up to prevent the escape of the aroma during this process. The extract thus obtained is a perfectly clear, dark fluid, known as café noir, or black coffee. 

It is black only because of its strength, being in fact almost the very essential oil of coffee. A table-spoonful of this in boiled milk would make what is ordinarily called a strong cup of coffee. The boiled milk is prepared with no less care. It must be fresh and new, not merely warmed or even brought to the boiling-point, but slowly simmered till it attains a thick, creamy richness. The coffee mixed with this, and sweetened with that sparkling beet-root sugar which ornaments a French table, is the celebrated café-au-lait, the name of which has gone round the world. 

From 1869: "Chocolate is a French and Spanish article, and one seldom served on American tables." ··· In 1502, Christopher Columbus was the first European to taste cocoa on his fourth voyage to the New World, returned to Europe with the first cocoa beans. Records from the time suggest that recognizing its potential, he took a load of cocoa beans back to Spain.

As we look to France for the best coffee, so we must look to England for the perfection of tea. The tea-kettle is as much an English institution as aristocracy or the Prayer-Book; and when one wants to know exactly how tea should he made, one has only to ask how a fine old English house-keeper makes it. 

The first article of her faith is, that the water must not merely be hot, not merely have boiled a few moments since, but be actually boiling at the moment it touches the tea. Hence, though servants in England are vastly better trained than with us, this delicate mystery is seldom left to their hands. Tea-making belongs to the drawing-room, and high-born ladies preside at the bubbling and loud hissing urn, and see that all due rites and solemnities are properly performed—that the cups are hot, and that the infused tea waits the exact time before the libations commence. 

Of late, the introduction of English breakfast-tea has raised a new sect among the tea-drinkers, reversing some of the old canons. Breakfast-tea must be boiled! Unlike the delicate article of olden time, which required only a momentary infusion to develop its richness, this requires a longer and severer treatment to bring out its strength—thus confusing all the established usages, and throwing the work into the hands of the cook in the kitchen. 

The faults of tea, as too commonly found at our hotels and boarding-houses, are, that it is made in every way the reverse of what it should be. The water is hot, perhaps, but not boiling; the tea has a general flat, stale, smoky taste, devoid of life or spirit; and it is served usually with thin milk, instead of cream. Cream is an essential to the richness of tea as of coffee. Lacking cream, boiled milk is better than cold. 

Chocolate is a French and Spanish article, and one seldom served on American tables. We in America, however, make an article every way equal to any which can be imported from Paris, and he who buys the best vanilla-chocolate may rest assured that no foreign land can furnish anything better. A very rich and delicious beverage may be made by dissolving this in milk, slowly boiled down after the French fashion. –From Catharine Beecher's and Harriet Beecher Stowe's, 1869, “American Woman's Home"

Etiquette Enthusiast, Maura J. Graber, is the the Site Editor for Etiquipedia© Etiquette Encyclopedia

A Literary Tea Salon

This past winter, a friend and I decided we’d love to offer talks on a variety of subjects at the Graber Olive House. Earlene Freeman and I regularly speak on etiquette, dining history, and vintage clothing, but we wanted to expand our horizons a bit. We wanted to not only host talks and seminars, but to also serve afternoon tea as refreshment. Little did we know, the Victorians came up with the idea back in 1893 and called these talks with tea served, “Literary Tea Salons.” Picking up my unread, thirty year old copy of a book on afternoon teas, I was surprised to read this passage below... 

Defining “A Literary Tea Salon”

The upper echelons of Victorian society were great patrons of the arts, and have lofty intellectual affectations. They gathered in each other's homes at tea time for musicals, book readings and lectures. Percy Bysshe Shelley is quoted as saying, “Teas, where small talk dies in agonies.” But that hardly seems the case. As proof, read this item from the society pages of a Philadelphia newspaper in 1893 –

“Mrs. John Sherwood, that interesting and indefatigable old lady, is giving a series of lectures on fashionable subjects in the most elegant parlors of the city. She gathers the cream of the beau monde about her. Mrs. John Sherwood thoroughly understands her listeners. They want the café frappé of ideas on all subjects, and she gives them just what they ask for, beaten very light and frothy indeed.

“In contrast to the charming whipped cream of Mrs. Sherwood are the intense, original dramatic lectures of Mrs. Florence Williams. She dissects Balzac with the keenest knife of criticism, and takes one into the innermost darkness of Dantean imagination. She has the head and deep tones of a man. She stirs one's interest and makes one think. Her audiences are not as large as Mrs. Sherwood's, but they are made up of cleverer people.”

Your own salon need not be nearly so pretentious. Considering meeting with a group of friends on a regular basis, perhaps rotating homes, to informally discuss current books, films and music. Enjoy the company, gossip a little, and of course, have a great tea. – From Angela Hynes’ “Tea Time Treasury”

Maura J. Graber is the Blog Site Editor and Curator for Traditions and Tea at Georgia Belle et Cie